Zurich : Museum Rietberg
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The impressive Museum Rietberg (www.rietberg.ch) comprises two villas set in a lush park southwest of the centre, which together house a spectacular collection of non-European art. Signs from the Rietberg stop on tram #7 direct you up into the park; a right-hand fork takes you to the Villa Wesendonck, a left-hand fork to the Park-Villa Rieter. The main collection is housed in the grandiose Villa Wesendonck (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Fr.6 for both buildings, plus about Fr.6 for any special exhibits), where the composer Richard Wagner lived for a time in 1857. Once inside, head left for a chronological tour, through rooms of Indian and Chinese Buddhist art and sculpture from between the third and sixteenth centuries – look out for the blissfully serene lovers’ faces, in glorious contrast to the mournfulness on display in the Landesmuseum’s European art of roughly the same period. A four-armed dancing Shiva in bronze, surrounded by a ring of fire, is particularly stunning. Upstairs are some intricate Tibetan bronzes, Chinese ceramics, and a host of American, African and Australasian pieces. The smaller Park-Villa Rieter (Tues–Sat 1–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm) houses on two floors changing selections from the museum’s enormous collection of exquisite Asian painting: Indian art on ground level, Chinese and Japanese art upstairs.

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